
North Goa Places to Visit and Things to Do, and What a Trip Costs, as of October 2026
Figures last verified
The places to visit in North Goa come in three groups: Fort Aguada with Sinquerim and Candolim; the Anjuna flea market, Vagator and Chapora Fort, which go together best on a Wednesday; and Old Goa's churches with the old quarter of Panaji (Panjim). The two coastal groups take a day each, and Old Goa and Panaji deserve more than a stop on the way somewhere else. If the list you read before this one put Old Goa in the south, it isn't there: Old Goa, like Panaji, is in North Goa district, and two of the pages that put its churches, or their galleries, in South Goa are named lower down. For things to do, we'd add what we did ourselves: the water sports at Candolim and an evening cruise on the Mandovi at Panaji.
- How many days? Two full days for the coast, one for Fort Aguada and Candolim and one for Anjuna, Vagator and Chapora; a third for Panaji and Old Goa, or a slower day. The plan
- Where to stay? Calangute can be convenient for a first visit, with the beach, shops and restaurants close; Vandana would look at Candolim too; Anjuna and Vagator are worth a look for the cafes, the market and evenings out. Where to stay
- Which day for the Anjuna market? Wednesday, in the season. Anjuna and Chapora
- Is Fort Aguada free? No: we paid Rs 25 each in February 2026, and the online counter of ASI (the Archaeological Survey of India) listed Rs 20 for Indian visitors and Rs 250 for foreigners in October 2026. Fort Aguada
- Things to do? Water sports at Candolim (Rs 1,100 a person for any three rides, at the state's uniform rates) and an evening cruise on the Mandovi at Panaji; we did both. Things to do
- What does it cost? For four nights from late October to mid-December 2026, before flights: about Rs 6,500 to 12,000 solo on a budget, Rs 14,000 to 24,000 for two on a budget or Rs 34,000 to 42,000 at a hotel like ours, Rs 29,000 to 46,000 for a family of four; much more around 31 December. Prices are in Indian rupees (Rs); the calculator adds dollars, pounds and euros. The budget and calculator
- Which airport? Mopa, about 29 to 35 km from Calangute, Chapora and Fort Aguada; a taxi to Calangute is about Rs 1,000 to 1,500, Kadamba's shuttle Rs 200. Getting around
- Is Old Goa in North Goa? Yes, in Tiswadi taluka, about 10 km east of Panaji. Old Goa and Panaji
We saw all three groups in February 2026: the coast on a scooter from a local supplier, which I rode most of the time and Vandana a little too, from a base in Calangute, and Panaji and Old Goa on the taxi ride south. Every timing and fee below says who publishes it: the place's own operator where we found one, otherwise a tourism department, the state portal or a guide, and we read them on 8 October 2026 and read again on 14 October the ones that move, when we also checked hotel prices for the budget ourselves. Where a figure comes from visitors or a news report, we say so.
Every place in the table below is in North Goa district, headquartered at Panaji and made up of five talukas (Goa's sub-districts): Pernem, Bardez, Bicholim, Sattari and Tiswadi. Goa has had three districts since 31 December 2025, when Kushavati was carved out of South Goa; North Goa itself didn't change.

| Place | Taluka | What you'll find | Timings and fees, as published | Distance (from Panaji unless stated) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fort Aguada, upper fort | Bardez | A 17th-century Portuguese fort on the headland, protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) | ASI's online counter: Rs 20 for Indian visitors, Rs 250 for foreigners, entry slots from 9 am to 6 pm daily. GTDC (the Goa Tourism Development Corporation, the state's tourism corporation) lists 9.30 am to 6.00 pm, the Ministry of Tourism 9.00 am to 5.00 pm | About 16 to 18 km |
| Aguad Port & Jail Complex (the old Aguada jail) | Bardez | The fort's lower site: Goa's old central jail, now a museum complex | Daily, 10 am to 8 pm; General Entry Rs 300, international visitors Rs 600, tax extra (the operator's booking page) | Same headland |
| Aguada lighthouse | Bardez | The lighthouse commissioned in 1976, on the hill west of the fort | 10.00 am to 5.30 pm and 7.30 to 8.30 pm (the lighthouse department); a small fee to climb, GTDC says | About 16 km |
| Sinquerim and Candolim | Bardez | The beach below the fort, running north into Candolim | Open beach | About 13 km to Sinquerim |
| Water sports, Candolim to Baga | Bardez | Parasailing, jet skis, banana and bumper rides from licensed counters on the beach | Uniform rates from 10 October 2025: any three of jet ski, banana and bumper ride Rs 1,100 a person; a winch parasailing boat Rs 6,000 a trip for up to 12. On beaches 8 am to 6.30 pm or sunset, whichever is earlier (the state's 2020 policy) | About 13 to 15 km |
| Calangute and Baga | Bardez | One long beach, and a convenient base for this coast | Open beach | About 15 km to Calangute |
| Anjuna flea market | Bardez | A weekly market of stalls at Anjuna | Wednesdays in the season, about 9 am to 6 pm, end of October to start of April (the Mopa airport's blog; some listings say May); we found no 2026-27 opening date in the English or Marathi press on 14 October | About 18 to 22 km |
| Vagator | Bardez | A rocky beach below Chapora Fort | Open beach | About 22 km |
| Chapora Fort | Bardez | A ruined, state-protected fort on the hill above Vagator, being restored | No timings on GTDC's page or the state portal; visitors' reviews from 2024 and April 2026 give 5.30 pm as closing | About 10 km from Mapusa |
| Mapusa | Bardez | The market town and taluka headquarters | Friday is the big market day (reports from 2018 and 2020) | About 13 km |
| Basilica of Bom Jesus, Old Goa | Tiswadi | The church that holds St Francis Xavier's tomb, part of a UNESCO World Heritage site | Free; weekdays 9.00 am to 6.30 pm, Sundays 10.30 am to 6.30 pm (Government of Goa portal); closes for some services | About 10 to 12 km |
| Se Cathedral, Old Goa | Tiswadi | The cathedral across the square from the Basilica | 7.30 am to 6.00 pm (GTDC and the Ministry of Tourism agree) | About 10 to 12 km |
| Mandovi river cruises, Panaji | Tiswadi | Evening boats from the Santa Monica jetty below the Mandovi bridges | No fare published by GTDC that we could reach; online on 14 October 2026, Rs 449 (a one-hour evening cruise, on sale) to Rs 1,500 (a dinner cruise) a person | In Panaji |
| Fontainhas and the Immaculate Conception church | Tiswadi | Panaji's old quarter, often called its Latin Quarter, and the white church above its square | The road through Fontainhas is closed to motor traffic (2022 order); the church 9.00 am to 12.30 pm and 3.30 to 7.30 pm (GTDC), though visitors in 2023 found it closed to the public | In Panaji |
These are the famous places in North Goa, the tourist places and attractions on the usual lists, with what each costs and when it opens. Distances are the publishers' own figures where they give one (GTDC, the lighthouse department, the Ministry of Tourism, UNESCO), otherwise a route on OpenStreetMap.
On this page
Places to visit in North Goa: how many days, and in what order?
In North Goa, two full days cover the places to see on the coast, and Panaji and Old Goa need time of their own. That's how we did it: Fort Aguada, Sinquerim and Candolim on one day, and the Anjuna market, lunch at Artjuna, Vagator and Chapora on the next. I'd split it the same way again, and add one more day to the trip.
We flew in to Mopa on 16 February 2026, took a taxi to Calangute, left our bags at Calangute Residency and went to Calangute beach in the evening. The 17th was Fort Aguada, Sinquerim and Candolim, and the 18th, a Wednesday, was the Anjuna market and the run up the coast to Chapora for the sunset. If you're counting and getting two days of sightseeing out of three nights, so am I: the first day was the flight and an evening on the beach, and on the 19th we saw Old Goa and Panaji, took the Mandovi cruise in the evening and then the taxi south, reaching Palolem late at night. It was six days in all, three nights at Calangute and two at Palolem.
If it's your first time in Goa, see both sides if you have the days; if the trip is short, see one side properly. Changing hotels every day takes a lot of time out of a holiday. That's advice from both of us. If you haven't yet chosen between North and South Goa, that choice comes first.
Two days in North Goa, or three
For a friend with two full days in the North, I'd plan it the way we did:
- Day 1, Fort Aguada, Sinquerim and Candolim.
- Day 2, Anjuna, Artjuna, Vagator and Chapora for the sunset. If you want the Anjuna market, make this day a Wednesday.
- With a third day, keep it light: Calangute beach and an unhurried breakfast, or Panaji and Old Goa if they're your priority, dropping a beach to make room.
Vandana would keep time for lunch and a rest in the middle of the day. Better, she says, to see two places fewer and sit a while in the ones you do see than to stop everywhere for a photo.
With only one day, pick one group: Fort Aguada, Sinquerim and Candolim with the water sports, or Old Goa and Panaji with the river cruise in the evening. Other than beaches, North Goa's places are its forts, Old Goa's churches, Fontainhas, the Mapusa and Anjuna markets, Reis Magos and the Harvalem caves.
Fort Aguada, Sinquerim and Candolim
Fort Aguada is three sites, run by three different bodies. The upper fort, with the old lighthouse inside it, is protected by ASI, which sells tickets for it. The old jail below it is a museum run by a private company, and the newer lighthouse on the hill beside the fort belongs to the lighthouse department.
The upper fort isn't free. When we went on 17 February 2026 it had an entry gate, and we went in with tickets: Rs 25 each, Rs 50 for the two of us, by our UPI record. Several guides, Thrillophilia's and the Mopa airport's blog among them, still say the fort is free, but ASI's online ticket counter lists "Upper Fort Aguada" as one of its two Goa monuments.
ASI's prices, and what visitors have paid
When we checked in October 2026, ASI's counter priced the upper fort at Rs 20 for Indian visitors, and for visitors from SAARC and BIMSTEC countries, and Rs 250 for foreigners. A visitor in January 2026 reported paying Rs 25 a person, and one in November 2024 wrote that foreigners paid Rs 300 against Rs 25 for locals. Those amounts match ASI's cash prices for its ordinary ticketed monuments; its cashless prices are Rs 20 and Rs 250, by the Ministry of Culture's answer in the Rajya Sabha on 9 February 2021. We paid Rs 25 each by UPI in February 2026, so don't count on the lower price at the fort; the Rs 20 is what ASI's online counter listed.
We'd ridden there on the scooter, right up to the parking at the top, so it was only a short walk to the entrance; from the fort we went on to Sinquerim beach below it, up to Candolim for the water sports, and then to Mapusa for the Carnival parade. For me, the fort and the view of the sea are reason enough to go, and if you like history or photographs it's a good stop. If you're travelling with older people, think about the walking before you go: the upper fort stands about 70 m above the sea, by satellite elevation data, and we found no published count of its steps.

Fort Aguada's opening hours depend on whose page you read. ASI's ticket counter sells entry slots for the upper fort from 9 am to noon and from noon to 6 pm, every day of the week. GTDC lists the fort as open every day from 9.30 am to 6.00 pm, and the Ministry of Tourism's Incredible India page says 9.00 am to 5.00 pm.
Fort Aguada has two lighthouses, and the newer one is the one GTDC says you can climb, for a small fee.
The two lighthouses, in detail
The old 1864 tower stands inside the fort, where the lighthouse department's history puts the first light; GTDC says it fell out of use in 1976, the year the new one was commissioned, and is most often closed to the public. Its replacement on the hill west of the fort, built between 1972 and 1976, is run by the Directorate General of Lighthouses and Lightships. Its page, last updated in July 2025, lists visiting hours of 10.00 am to 5.30 pm and 7.30 to 8.30 pm, and the department sells tickets on its own website, but we found no price tied to Aguada itself.
Fort Aguada's old jail is now the Aguad Port & Jail Complex, a museum run by a private company; many pages still call it the Aguada jail museum, and Aguad is the operator's own spelling.
When we checked in October 2026, the booking page of Waterfront Experiences, the company that runs it, listed General Entry at Rs 300 and International Visitor Entry at Rs 600, with the interactive museum included; a heritage walk with entry was Rs 800. The complex is open daily from 10 am to 8 pm.
The jail's history, the older fees, and the boat
It was Goa's central jail until 2015, and the Ministry of Tourism's page calls it the Freedom Struggle Museum. The Prime Minister inaugurated it as a museum on 19 December 2021, and the Chief Minister announced it would open to the general public from 1 September 2022. The interactive museum inside was inaugurated in October 2023.
The Rs 100, Rs 200 and Rs 400 you may see quoted are the fees reported in October 2023, for Goans, other Indian visitors and foreigners, not what the operator lists now.
Its return boat transfers from Panaji, Rs 1,200 a head on its own page, are closed for the season and due back from November 2026. GTDC's own Fort Aguada page still described a working jail closed to visitors when we read it.
Sinquerim is the beach right under Fort Aguada, about 13 km from Panaji by GTDC's figure. GTDC describes a 2 km footpath as the shorter way up to the fort, and warns that it's a steep climb. Vandana would see Sinquerim on the same day as the fort, keep some time on the beach afterwards and not rush off to the next place.

Candolim carries on north from Sinquerim to Calangute, and it's where we did the water sports on 17 February. We'd treat it as a lunch-and-beach stop on the Aguada day rather than a day of its own, and the same goes for most beaches on this coast. Candolim, Calangute, Anjuna and Vagator are all named among Goa's eroding beaches in a national coastal study reported in April 2025, so a stretch you've seen in someone's photo may be narrower now.
Anjuna, Vagator and Chapora Fort: make it a Wednesday
Plan this stretch for a Wednesday, because that's the only day the Anjuna flea market runs. GTDC describes it as weekly, on Wednesdays, but gives no season dates. The Mopa airport's visitor blog gives 9 am to 6 pm and a season from the end of October to the start of April, and a visitor in March 2026 gave the same hours. Some listings say the season runs into May.
Visitors found the market running on Wednesdays through February, March and the first day of April 2026. It shuts for the monsoon, and when we checked we found no announcement of the 2026-27 opening in the English or Marathi press.
Our Wednesday was 18 February 2026, and we started at the market. Vandana would walk the market first and then sit down to lunch at Artjuna; if you like shopping, she'd give it more time, and she'd tell you that you needn't buy anything: just walking through it is fine.


Lunch was at Artjuna, a cafe. We're both vegetarian, and we shared hummus with pita bread and falafel; for Vandana, sitting down to an unhurried lunch after the market was a good break.
People expect seafood in Goa, and what surprised me is how much the cafes have for vegetarians: hummus, falafel, vegetable sandwiches and more. In a cafe like Artjuna next time, Vandana would have hummus with pita and falafel again, with a fresh juice; I'd go for a falafel pita or a mushroom hummus. When I'm properly hungry, I'd have a veg thali.
Breakfast was the hotel's, or a simple one somewhere nearby: dosa, idli and tea suit us. We ate dinner around Calangute and towards the beach, choosing by the menu, since we're both vegetarian, and Vandana doesn't remember their names. Artjuna is the one we do remember.
Vagator is the beach below Chapora Fort, about 22 km from Panaji, with black rock cliffs over the water. A headland splits it into smaller beaches, and one visitor's review names two of them Big Vagator and Little Vagator, or Ozran. We went on there after lunch. I'd look at the rocky coast as well as the beach, and walk around for a while instead of taking one photo and leaving.

Chapora Fort is the ruin on the hill above Vagator, and it's being restored. We went up for the sunset on 18 February 2026 and were inside the fort, by the old walls: we walked around a little, took photos and watched the sun go down, and as Vandana remembers it, we spent some time up there, not a photo and straight back down. We'd both say get there early, so that after the climb you can sit down comfortably before the sun goes. If someone in your group finds walking hard, think about this stop before you plan it: the way up has both steps and a slope, and I'd allow 15 to 20 minutes going up at an easy pace. Vandana found it harder work than Aguada: wear shoes with a good grip, carry water, and with children or older people, stop on the way. The fort stands about 60 m above the sea, and visitors' counts of the steps differ, from fifty-odd to 120.
What we can't tell you is whether you can still stay up there for the sunset. Chapora Fort's timings aren't published on GTDC's page or the state portal, and the archaeology department's own website was closed to the public when we tried it on 8 October 2026. Visitors' reviews give 5.30 pm as closing time: one written in February 2024, and one from April 2026, whose writer found the works going on and wrote that entry was cut off strictly at 5.30. The sun sets at around 6.30 pm in February, an hour after that cut-off. Nobody asked us to leave in February 2026; go well before 5.30 pm and expect work in progress.
The restoration, as reported
On 19 September 2026 Prudent Media reported a Rs 4.61 crore (Rs 46.1 million; a crore is 10 million) restoration of Chapora Fort under way. Delilah Lobo, the Siolim MLA (the elected member of the state assembly), said it was expected to finish by December 2026. The report doesn't say whether any part of the fort is closed while the work goes on, and we found no notice that it is. A visitor who went in April 2026 found work already going on, so it may have started before that report.
Chapora Fort has had an entry fee on paper since January 2025, but we found no report of anyone paying it. The state's rules set the fee at Rs 50 in November 2024, and the Official Gazette of 2 January 2025 lists Chapora among the monuments where it applies. A visitor in early 2024, before that notice, and a travel blog in July 2026 both describe entry as free. In July 2025 the minister in charge said the government would seek approval to impose an entry fee at the fort. The fort is protected by the state, not ASI, and in July 2025 the MLA told the Assembly that tourists were still visiting and there were still no toilets.

Calangute and Baga: a base, and what has changed
Calangute is about 15 km from Panaji and under 9 km by road from both Fort Aguada and the Anjuna market, by an OpenStreetMap route. It's where we stayed, at Calangute Residency, a hotel GTDC runs, and I think Calangute is a convenient base for touring the North. Baga is just north of it on the same long beach.

If you're staying in Calangute, Vandana would keep time for a beach walk, and if you want quiet, she'd tell you to choose the hotel's exact location with care and to ask before booking where your room is and how much music there is around it. The best thing about Calangute Residency, she says, is its location; she says that with more attention to room maintenance, breakfast and service the stay could be better. To her, a good location and a comfortable stay are two different things.
A lot has changed around Calangute and Baga since February 2026. Works worth nearly Rs 25 crore, underground cables and drains among them, had begun across Calangute by late May 2026. On the long weekend of 3 October 2026 traffic jammed at the Calangute market junction, where, a resident told the Times of India, the roads had been dug up for cabling. In May 2026 the Tourism Department began demolishing the parts of beach restaurants found to encroach on the sand along the Calangute-Baga stretch, on High Court directions.
The higher fines at tourist places, from August 2026
Fines at the state's notified tourist places went up: a notification from the Director of Tourism, reported on 1 August 2026, set them from Rs 5,000 up to Rs 1 lakh (Rs 100,000). Under a 2022 order the ceiling had been Rs 50,000. It covers drinking where it's banned, breaking bottles, littering, cooking in the open, driving on the beach, unlicensed hawking and illegal beach parties.
North Goa after sunset: our four evenings, and the 10 pm rule
Our four evenings in North Goa were a beach, a parade, a fort and a river: Calangute beach on the 16th, the Mapusa Carnival parade on the 17th, the sunset from Chapora Fort on the 18th, and a cruise on the Mandovi at Panaji on the 19th. On the first we reached the beach after landing, watched the sunset and walked around a little, and that evening we both had a 90-minute traditional Thai massage at Snip Salon & Spa in Calangute: Rs 5,500 a person on its menu, and Rs 10,000 for the two of us after Rs 1,000 off (the menu also had aroma therapy or Indonesian, Rs 3,400 a person for 60 minutes or Rs 4,800 for 90); we kept that day light, and for a couple, honeymooners especially, Vandana would keep a rest like that in the plan. The Carnival parade has its own page. On the 18th we sat up at Chapora for a while, then rode back to Calangute for dinner and packed for the south. The cruise on the 19th is below, with the things to do. Vandana remembers something different from each: the joy of reaching the beach on the first, the Carnival's colours on the second, and sitting together at Chapora on the third.
Vandana remembers Calangute at night in February 2026 as busy, with shops, restaurants and music, plenty to go out to and not much quiet. We walked back together at an easy pace. On her own, Vandana would check where her stay is and how she'd get back before going out, keep to lit places with people about, and leave anywhere that felt wrong: a crowd, she says, isn't by itself a reason to feel safe.
The music is meant to stop at 10 pm: the chairperson of the Goa State Pollution Control Board said in January 2026 that playing music after 10 pm is illegal except on 15 notified days a year, O Heraldo reported. If you're sleeping nearby and want quiet, ask about it before you book.
What the board has done at Anjuna and Vagator
At Anjuna and Vagator the board gave closure directions to 22 establishments in September 2025, sent show-cause notices to 20 in January 2026 and closure directions to four in February 2026, O Heraldo reported in April 2026, from the board's letter to the state's vigilance directorate; residents said then that the noise had eased but not stopped.
We didn't go to a night market, and in English and Marathi sources, searched on 10 October 2026, we found no dated report from the 2025-26 season of Arpora's Saturday night market or Baga's running; ask where you're staying whether they're on that week.
Where to stay in North Goa: Calangute, Candolim or Anjuna and Vagator
For a first visit, Calangute can be a convenient base, with the beach, shops and restaurants close together, if you plan around its crowds and traffic; for a couple or a family who want it calmer, Vandana would look at Candolim too. Anjuna and Vagator she liked for the cafes, the market and the sunsets, and for anyone who wants evenings out. When she books next, she'd check the music nearby, the stairs and how far the room is from the beach.
We stayed at Calangute Residency to be near the beach and places to eat, so we wouldn't need a vehicle every time we went to the sea; Vandana looked at other places too, but doesn't remember their names.
For what rooms cost, from a hostel bed to the room we had, see the budget: on our checks for late October and mid-December, the cheapest well-reviewed doubles in Calangute were about Rs 1,100 to 1,800 a night with tax, and our sea-view room about Rs 6,250 to 6,400 with breakfast.
We haven't stayed anywhere else in North Goa, so the rest of this is research:
- Hostels. Hostelworld listed 26 hostels in Vagator, and lists The Beachside Hostel Anjuna, with guest reviews from September 2026. Its Calangute and Baga lists are short and loosely mapped: both of the Calangute list's hostels are in Candolim, and the Baga list repeats them, its third giving an address on the Baga-Arpora road.
- Resorts. Taj Fort Aguada Resort gives its address as Sinquerim, Candolim, in Bardez taluka.
Wherever you book, ask for its registration number with Goa's Tourism Department; the state has told booking sites to list only registered hotels and guest houses, The Federal reported in December 2024. On the Calangute-Baga beachfront, encroaching parts of beach restaurants have been coming down since May 2026 (above), so a place on the sand in an older review may have changed.
Old Goa and Panaji: what to see, and is Old Goa in North Goa?
Yes: Old Goa is in Tiswadi taluka, North Goa district, a separate town about 10 km east of Panaji. Its churches and convents have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1986, and ASI's own list puts the Basilica of Bom Jesus and Se Cathedral in North Goa. The South Goa district's website still lists the galleries at Se Cathedral and the Basilica among South Goa's museums, on a page last updated in 2018. Thrillophilia's South Goa list places Se Cathedral in the south too.
We saw Old Goa and Panaji on 19 February 2026, the day we moved south. We saw the Basilica of Bom Jesus and Se Cathedral from outside, walked around them and took photos, but didn't go in: we had to reach Palolem that day, so Old Goa was a short stop. Goa has a lot to see besides beaches, and I'd give the lanes, the old houses and the churches their time. On the day you move south, I wouldn't fill the programme so full that you're looking at the clock at every stop. Vandana would keep a little more time for Panaji and Old Goa next time.

The places to visit in Old Goa are its churches and museums, and the main ones stand together: the Basilica of Bom Jesus, Se Cathedral across the square from it, and the Archaeological Museum beside them.
The Basilica of Bom Jesus is free to enter, and its timings, on the Government of Goa's portal, are 9.00 am to 6.30 pm on weekdays and 10.30 am to 6.30 pm on Sundays. ASI's page says 8.30 am to 5.30 pm every day, and GTDC lists 9.00 am to 5.00 pm from Monday to Saturday. Visitors' reviews from 2022 to 2026 say photography isn't allowed inside, and one in August 2026 said shoulders must be covered. In 2016 the rector told UCA News he had issued a dress code and, in extreme cases, asked people to come back properly dressed; we found nothing newer from the Basilica itself, so carry something to cover your shoulders.
The Basilica also closes to visitors for its own services, and says so in notices from the Basilica and the Archdiocese. In both 2025 and 2026 it closed from the morning of Holy Thursday to 11 am on Easter Sunday, and on 8 November 2025 it closed for a whole day. The Feast of St Francis Xavier is on 3 December, with a novena, nine days of prayer, before it. If you're going in Holy Week, in late November or around 3 December, check the notice first.
GTDC and the Ministry of Tourism both give Se Cathedral's timings as 7.30 am to 6.00 pm, and a visitor in 2023 reported no photography inside it either. The Archaeological Museum, run by ASI, is closed on Fridays and charges Rs 10, by the Ministry of Tourism's page and ASI's own ticket counter. The Museum of Christian Art, also in Old Goa, charges Rs 100 for adults and Rs 50 for students and opens 10 am to 5 pm, by its own website.

In Panaji, the old quarter of Fontainhas, often called its Latin Quarter, is for walking. A July 2022 order closed the road through Fontainhas and Rua de Natal to motor vehicles, with exemptions for residents and essential services, and we found nothing revoking it. People live in those painted houses, and some have put up notices asking visitors not to photograph them. The city announced wardens for the lanes in July 2025, and in March 2026 a report found them in a few of the busiest. Photograph the streets, not people's front doors.
The white Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception stands above its own square. GTDC says it's open every day from 9.00 am to 12.30 pm and 3.30 to 7.30 pm. Two visitors in 2023, though, found the church itself closed to the public, with Mass held in the building beside it. A visitor in late 2024 wrote that you need knees and shoulders covered to go up into the grounds.

Things to do in North Goa: water sports at Candolim, a Mandovi cruise, the sunsets
The things to do in North Goa that we did ourselves were the water sports at Candolim (Rs 1,100 a person for any three rides at the state's rates), an evening cruise on the Mandovi at Panaji (Rs 449 to 1,500 a person online in October 2026) and the sunsets, from Calangute beach and from Chapora Fort. Each is below: what it was like for us, what it costs now, and how to book it without being overcharged.
Water sports at Candolim
On 17 February 2026, after Fort Aguada and Sinquerim, we tried parasailing and a jet ski at Candolim. I rode the jet ski. Vandana remembers being a little nervous before the parasailing, and that seeing the beach from up there was the part she liked. For me the North was the excitement on this trip, and the South, where we kayaked at Palolem, was the slower pace. We booked both at a counter on the beach, not through the hotel or online, and paid Rs 1,500 each for the parasailing and Rs 800 each for the jet ski, Rs 4,600 for the two of us. Before you pay, Vandana would ask how long the ride lasts, and whether photos, a video and the dip in the parasailing are included or extra. The rates the state has set are below.

Licensed operators on Goa's beaches charge the uniform rates the Department of Tourism set from 10 October 2025. Any three of a jet ski, a banana ride and a bumper ride cost Rs 1,100 a person; a banana ride is Rs 1,000 a ride for five people over 200 m; and a winch parasailing boat is Rs 6,000 a trip for up to 12 people for 30 minutes, which comes to about Rs 500 a head when the boat is full. The same list sets a dolphin-watching trip at Rs 350 to 800 a person and a one-hour boat ride at Rs 1,000 a person, at least six to a boat; we didn't do either. The report of the rates printed no price for a single jet-ski ride or a single parasailing flight, so ask at the counter, and we found no revision for 2026-27 by 14 October 2026. On 14 October 2026 an online seller, Thrillophilia, listed parasailing at Calangute at Rs 1,099 a person.

Buy water sports only at a licensed counter or through the Tourism Department's own links. In October 2025 the department said tickets sold by unregistered agents or from outside Goa would be treated as a nuisance, and in 2023 the Tourism Minister said he'd seen a man at Calangute charging Rs 3,000 for parasailing against the usual Rs 800. Under rules the state announced on 28 September 2026, operators must carry third-party insurance, with registration due by 31 October, so it's fair to ask about it. The state's 2020 water-sports policy allows rides on beaches from 8 am to 6.30 pm or before sunset, whichever is earlier, never in unsafe weather or the monsoon. It sets no age or weight limits, and we couldn't read the state's older 2005 rules, a scanned file; ask the operator before you pay for a child or an older parent.
A cruise on the Mandovi at Panaji
On 19 February 2026, after Old Goa and Panaji, we took an evening sunset cruise on the Mandovi from the Santa Monica jetty, before the taxi south. It was a private operator's boat, not a dinner cruise: Rs 1,000 for the two of us, and the ticket listed sightseeing, DJ music and a folk-dance programme, with no dinner. For me, seeing Panaji from the water felt different from riding through it. Vandana remembers sitting out in the breeze and looking at the riverfront; there was music on board, so the mood was lively, and we took photos together.

The river cruises leave from the Santa Monica jetty, the tourism jetty below the Mandovi bridges at Panaji. We couldn't reach a fare or timetable from GTDC itself: its river-cruise page wouldn't load on 14 October 2026. Thrillophilia listed a one-hour evening cruise on the Nirvana at Rs 449 a person that day, a sale price against Rs 999, and Paradise Cruises' own page priced its two-hour dinner cruise, 8.45 to 10.45 pm from the boat centre below the Mandovi bridge, at Rs 1,500 for anyone 11 or over, Rs 1,200 for children of 5 to 10, free under 5. Book ahead for the week around New Year.
The sunsets
We watched the sun go down from Calangute beach on our first evening and from inside Chapora Fort on the 18th; the Chapora section has what we can and can't tell you about staying up there now. By our own calculation for Panaji, the sun sets at around 6.30 pm in February. For two of you, my advice is the same as for the whole trip: if you're doing the cruise, the water sports and a special dinner, put them on different days, so you enjoy each one. Vandana would keep one day with nothing planned at all. If you're planning a honeymoon in Goa, we weren't on a honeymoon, just a couple's trip, but we did most of what honeymooners come for.
What else is there to see in North Goa?
Beyond the three groups above, the other places to see in North Goa are Mapusa's Friday market, the beaches and forts of Pernem up north, the restored Reis Magos Fort across the river from Panaji, the river islands, and the lake and waterfall inland in Bicholim.
Mapusa is Bardez's market town, about 13 km north of Panaji. Friday is its big market day, going by reports from 2018 and 2020. We found no timetable from the municipal council, so go on a Friday if you want the full market.
| Place | Taluka | What it is | What we checked |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reis Magos Fort | Bardez | A restored riverside fort, now a cultural centre | Ministry of Tourism: Tuesday to Sunday, 11.00 am to 5.30 pm, though the state portal's page still says "the bastion ... is not open to the public"; about 8 km from Panaji by road, across the Mandovi |
| Morjim, Ashwem, Mandrem | Pernem | Beaches north of the Chapora river | Morjim is an Olive Ridley turtle nesting beach, and music isn't allowed at a notified nesting site (Pernem Deputy Collector, February 2026) |
| Arambol (Harmal) | Pernem | The northern beach village | The state bus from Panaji runs to Harmal through Candolim and Calangute (Kadamba route list, February 2026) |
| Fort Tiracol | Pernem | A fort across the Tiracol river, with a heritage hotel inside | The Querim to Tiracol ferry runs 6.00 am to 10.15 pm (River Navigation Department timetable) |
| Alorna Fort | Pernem | A 17th-century fort inland | The first phase of its restoration, about Rs 66 lakh, is done, and the restored fort was rededicated in June 2026 |
| Divar and Chorao islands | Tiswadi | River islands reached by state ferry | Foot passengers and two-wheelers ride the ferries free. The Ministry of Tourism lists the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary on Chorao as open 6 am to 6 pm, but a visitor found it closed for renovation in September 2026 |
| Mayem Lake | Bicholim | A lake east of Mapusa | Ministry of Tourism: 8.00 am to 7.00 pm. GTDC opened kayaking there on 15 June 2026, but in August the High Court suspended water sports on Goa's inland waterways, and we couldn't confirm whether Mayem's kayaks run in the 2026-27 season |
| Harvalem falls and caves | Bicholim | A waterfall and ASI-protected rock-cut caves near Sanquelim | A Rs 19 crore temple-complex project beside them was under way in June 2026, due to finish within a year |
Which places on North Goa lists aren't in North Goa?
The temples and spice farms around Ponda are in South Goa district, and Dudhsagar falls, Palolem and Cabo de Rama are in Kushavati, the district Goa created on 31 December 2025. Kushavati is made of Quepem, Sanguem, Dharbandora and Canacona talukas. Some popular North Goa lists still carry these places: Thrillophilia's has Mangueshi temple, and the Richmonde Ananta Elite hotel's blog has Dudhsagar and the spice plantations.
Palolem and Cabo de Rama, in Canacona, are still called South Goa in everyday talk and on travel pages. With Ponda and Dudhsagar, they belong among the places of South Goa, the side where we spent our last two nights, at Palolem.
Getting between North Goa places
In North Goa you get around by rented scooter, taxi or state bus, because the state has kept Uber and Ola out. The Chief Minister said in June 2025 that Ola and Uber weren't coming, and we found no change when we checked on 14 October 2026. GoaMiles, the app-based taxi service set up by GTDC, covers Calangute, Baga, Candolim, Anjuna and Panaji.
Kadamba's state buses, on its February 2026 route list, run from Panaji to Mapusa through Calangute, from Panaji up to Arambol, and from Mopa airport to Calangute. We rode a scooter on 17 and 18 February, from a local supplier, and filled it at a petrol pump; Vandana liked being able to stop, or stay longer, wherever we chose. If you plan to do the same, read up on renting a scooter in Goa first.
Two things changed for scooter riders in 2026. Two-wheelers are barred from the Porvorim flyover on the Panaji to Mapusa road, a rule still in force on 4 October 2026. And on 1 August 2026 traffic cameras at 26 places in Goa began issuing fines, including for riding without a helmet.
Mopa is the nearest airport for this coast. By OpenStreetMap's route planner, Mopa is about 29 to 35 km by road from Calangute, Chapora and Fort Aguada, and Dabolim, Goa's other airport, about 44 to 51 km.
A taxi from Mopa to Calangute costs about Rs 1,000 to 1,500, depending on how the state's new fare card is read. The table sets the figures side by side; the detail follows.
| Source | Fare | Date |
|---|---|---|
| The state's card, yellow-black hatchback or sedan (our arithmetic) | About Rs 984; about Rs 1,476 if its one-way extra applies | Notified September 2026, as reported |
| The same card, tourist taxi, smallest hatchback (our arithmetic) | About Rs 1,063 | September 2026, as reported |
| The taxi board at Mopa | Rs 1,094 hatchback, Rs 1,211 sedan | 16 February 2026, our photo |
| What we paid | Rs 1,500 | 16 February 2026, UPI |
| Kadamba's air-conditioned shuttle | Rs 200 a passenger | Citizens' charter, January 2026 |
The card notified in September 2026, as digitalgoa and O Heraldo reported it, charges a yellow-black hatchback or sedan Rs 300 for the first 3 km and Rs 430 up to 8 km, then Rs 26 a km, so about Rs 984 for the 29 km to Calangute by our arithmetic, or about Rs 1,476 if the card's 50 per cent extra for one-way trips outside municipal limits applies to an airport run, which no source we read says. A tourist taxi's smallest hatchback, at Rs 445 up to 8 km and Rs 29 a km after, comes to about Rs 1,063. Tolls, parking and the 11 pm to 5 am surcharge of 35 per cent are on top. We paid Rs 1,500 on 16 February 2026, and the taxi board at Mopa that day showed Rs 1,094 for a hatchback and Rs 1,211 for a sedan to Calangute: that was the board then, not today's fare. QR rate cards for cabs were promised for mid-October 2026; we found no notice that they're in use by 14 October. Kadamba's shuttle is Rs 200 a passenger. More on fares will go on our Goa taxi fares page.
North Goa for couples, with family or with parents: steps, toilets, food and after dark
North Goa suits couples and friends who want a lively base, and families too if you plan the climbs, the water and the evenings around the youngest and oldest in the group. Each answer below says what it rests on.
For couples. Calangute or Candolim as a base, the coast on a scooter, a sunset at Chapora, the Mandovi cruise, and a day kept free. Our advice for two is above.
With family and small children. Swim only where the lifeguards are, in the zone marked by red and yellow flags; the state's water-sports policy quotes a High Court order that puts those flags over the bathing zone the lifeguards watch. Drishti, the company that runs Goa's beach lifeguards, made 548 water rescues across Goa in 2025, and the most were at three North Goa beaches: Calangute 103, Baga 68 and Sinquerim 61, O Heraldo reported. For water sports, the operator decides who's old or heavy enough; nothing in the state's policy says. The cheapest well-reviewed rooms that sleep four in Calangute started from about Rs 1,600 to 2,400 a night with tax on Booking.com for late October and mid-December, when we checked on 14 October 2026, and a taxi for the day suits a family better than two scooters.
With friends. A group can split a taxi for the day (Rs 2,050 to 3,200 for up to eight hours, by the 2021 fares) instead of renting several scooters, and the water-sports combo of three rides is Rs 1,100 each. Know two rules before a night out: music stops at 10 pm, and drinking where it's banned or breaking bottles at a tourist place can mean a fine of Rs 5,000 to Rs 1 lakh.
With parents, or anyone who finds steps hard. Both forts are climbs: Fort Aguada's upper fort stands about 70 m above the sea and Chapora about 60 m, and GTDC calls the 2 km footpath from Sinquerim to Aguada a steep climb. At Aguada we rode up to the parking at the top and walked a short way in; Chapora was steps and a slope, 15 to 20 minutes up at an easy pace. We didn't note a toilet at either, we found no published step count, and in July 2025 the local MLA told the Assembly that Chapora still had no toilets. For a step-free beach, Panaji's Miramar has had an accessible boardwalk to the water since October 2025, built by GTDC for wheelchair users, and a public toilet block. Old Goa's churches stand around one open square; we saw them from outside, so we can't tell you about steps inside. A taxi for the day spares the climbs on a scooter and the midday heat, and Vandana would keep time for lunch and a rest in the middle of any day.
Vegetarian or Jain. We're both vegetarian and ate well in the North: hummus, pita and falafel at Artjuna in Anjuna; idli, vada, uttapam and dosa at Navtara in Mapusa; dal, jeera rice and roti at Calangute Residency; puri bhaji and chai at Cafe Sai Sadanand in Mapusa market. Pure-veg restaurants aren't the same as Jain kitchens, so ask for food without onion, garlic or root vegetables. In October 2026 the state's food regulator ordered five Calangute restaurants, two of them national chains, to shut over hygiene, so a busy name isn't proof of a clean kitchen.
After dark. Vandana remembers Calangute as busy at night when we were there, Anjuna and Vagator are where the pollution board has acted against late music, and music is meant to stop at 10 pm; our evenings and Vandana's advice are above. A taxi between 11 pm and 5 am costs 35 per cent more on the state's card. Goa Tourism's helpline is 1364, in English, Hindi, Marathi and Konkani, and 112 is the national emergency number. The safety page will cover the rest of Goa.
| What people say | What the evidence says | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| "Fort Aguada is free" | Thrillophilia, Travelxp and the Mopa airport's blog say so; ASI's counter sells tickets at Rs 20 for Indians and Rs 250 for foreigners, and we paid Rs 25 each | Not true |
| "Foreigners pay the same as Indians at Aguada" | Google's AI answer said so on 14 October 2026; ASI's own counter lists Rs 250 for foreigners | Not true |
| "You can get an Uber in Goa" | The Chief Minister said in June 2025 that Ola and Uber are not coming to Goa; we found no change by October 2026 | Not true, as of October 2026 |
| "Taxis overcharge" | Overcharging is reported case by case, and the Tourism Minister said in 2024 that some operators fleece; the state notified a fare card in September 2026 and promised QR rate cards in cabs, which we found no notice of by 14 October | Partly true: know the card and agree the fare first |
| "Water sports are a scam" | The state set uniform rates in October 2025 and is acting against unregistered sellers; the minister himself said in 2023 he'd seen a Rs 3,000 parasail at Calangute | Partly true: buy at a licensed counter |
| "You get fined for drinking on the beach" | A Director of Tourism notification reported in August 2026 lists drinking where it's banned and breaking bottles, with fines from Rs 5,000 up to Rs 1 lakh (Rs 100,000) | True where drinking is banned; the notification's own list of places wasn't in what we read |
| "Goa is dead, the tourists have gone" | The Department of Tourism counted 7,690,149 arrivals from January to September 2026, slightly more than the same months of 2025; foreign arrivals are the part that has fallen since before Covid | Not true for Goa as a whole |
| "You can stay at Chapora for the sunset" | Nobody asked us to leave in February 2026, but a visitor in April 2026 wrote that entry was cut off at 5.30 pm during the works | Can't say for now |
Coming from abroad: visa, arrival card, foreigners' tickets and paying
Visa. Most visitors need an Indian e-visa. India's own fee table, dated 8 September 2026, charges $25 for a 30-day e-tourist visa from July to March and $10 from April to June for travellers from the UK, the US, Germany, France, Canada and many other countries, nothing for Russians, plus a 3 per cent bank charge. OCI cardholders (Overseas Citizens of India, foreign nationals of Indian origin) need no visa.
Before you land. Since 1 April 2026 foreign nationals and OCI cardholders fill in an online e-Arrival card within 72 hours before arrival, Business Today reported, and since 25 June 2026 every international passenger completes the Air Suvidha health self-declaration, up to 24 hours ahead, by the Indian missions' notice.
Flights. Charter airlines plan to fly in from October 2026 to April 2027: TUI four flights a week from November to March, two each from Manchester and London Gatwick, and six a week from Russia, possibly nine, The Goan reported in July 2026. Mopa is the closer airport for North Goa.
Tickets. Foreigners pay Rs 250 at Fort Aguada's upper fort online (visitors report Rs 300 at the fort) and Rs 600 at the Aguad jail complex, against Rs 20 and Rs 300 for Indian visitors. We found no rule putting OCI cardholders on the Indian rate; ask at the counter.
Paying. Carry some rupees in cash: small shops, scooter rentals and market stalls often want cash or UPI (India's instant phone-payment system), which normally needs an Indian bank account. NPCI's UPI One World wallet lets some foreign visitors pay by UPI, loaded from a foreign card, up to Rs 25,000 at a time and Rs 50,000 a month, but it began as a pilot and doesn't cover every country. Visa and Mastercard cards issued by Russian banks don't work in India, and Mir isn't accepted, so bring dollars or euros to change.
Your hotel registers you. Hotels, guest houses and private hosts must file a C-Form with your passport and visa details within 24 hours of your arrival; the penalty, Rs 50,000 a case, falls on the host, not on you.
Every rupee figure on this page is the rupee price; in the budget below we add an "about" figure in dollars, pounds and euros at the RBI reference rate of 13 October 2026, Rs 95.25 to the dollar.
What a North Goa trip costs: solo, with a partner or with family
For four nights in North Goa from late October to mid-December 2026, plan for about Rs 6,500 to 12,000 on your own on a budget, Rs 14,000 to 24,000 for two on a budget or Rs 34,000 to 42,000 for two at a mid-range hotel like ours, and Rs 29,000 to 46,000 for a family of four on a budget. That's about $70 to 125, about $145 to 250, about $360 to 440 and about $300 to 480. These are planning ranges built from the cheaper end of what's on offer, not a typical bill. Priced at the rates for 31 December every night, the same trips come to about Rs 11,000 to 18,000, Rs 84,000 to 92,000 and Rs 43,000 to 79,000; that's a ceiling, since 31 December was the only peak night we priced. Rooms cost two to three times as much that night, and a whole trip about one and a half to two and a half times as much. None of it includes flights or trains to Goa.
| Who | How we priced it | Late October to mid-December 2026 | At 31 December rates |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solo | A hostel bed in Anjuna or Vagator, Kadamba's shuttle from Mopa, a scooter | Rs 6,500 to 12,000 (about $70 to 125) | Rs 11,000 to 18,000 |
| With a partner | The sea-view room at Calangute Residency, where we stayed, breakfast included; a taxi from Mopa; a scooter | Rs 34,000 to 42,000 (about $360 to 440) | Rs 84,000 to 92,000 |
| With family | Two adults and two children under 12 in a budget room for four; an SUV taxi from Mopa; a taxi for each day out | Rs 29,000 to 46,000 (about $300 to 480) | Rs 43,000 to 79,000 |
Each total adds up the dated ranges below, the same ones the calculator uses, for four nights and three days out, with three vegetarian meals a day and the four tickets listed below. Children are counted at the adult price for food and tickets, and the hotel we used includes breakfast, so a family's or a couple's real figure may be a little lower. The room prices are the cheapest well-reviewed ones on offer, the low end of the market rather than a typical bill. Two people from abroad pay about Rs 35,000 to 43,000 for the same trip, the difference being the foreigners' tickets.
Every line of the budget, with its source and date
- Hostel bed: Rs 567 to 1,050 a night, Rs 1,575 to 2,213 on 31 December, taxes in: the cheapest well-reviewed dorm beds in Anjuna and Vagator on Booking.com, for 28 October, 15 December and 31 December 2026, read on 14 October 2026.
- Budget double room: Rs 1,103 to 1,794 a night, Rs 3,149 to 5,249 on 31 December: the 12 cheapest Calangute rooms with a guest score of 7 or more on Booking.com, same dates.
- Calangute Residency's sea-view room, for two with breakfast: Rs 6,365 for 28 October, Rs 6,247 for 15 December and Rs 18,533 for 31 December 2026 (non-refundable), taxes in, on MakeMyTrip on 14 October 2026; GTDC doesn't sell its rooms online, and 21 October showed no rooms.
- Room for a family of four: Rs 1,575 to 2,394 a night, Rs 5,250 to 10,620 on 31 December; a four-star family room Rs 2,100 to 5,009, and Rs 10,620 to 16,520 on 31 December: Booking.com, two adults and two children, same dates.
- Airport and back: Kadamba's shuttle Rs 200 each way; a taxi Rs 984 to 1,500 each way (the card worked out, to what we paid); an SUV Rs 1,242 to 1,862 each way (the card, without and with its one-way extra). Taxi fares are notified, so there's no seasonal rate.
- Scooter: Rs 200 to 400 a day by Goa Tourism's own page, and we paid Rs 500 a day in February 2026; a Gomantak Times guide says rentals rise Rs 100 to 300 a day in the peak season. Petrol was Rs 104.06 a litre in North Goa on Upstox on 9 October 2026, and our two day loops measure 24 and 36 km by OpenStreetMap's planner, so about Rs 50 to 85 a day at the 45 to 50 km a litre riders report for a 110cc scooter (Autocar India).
- Taxi for the day: Rs 2,050 (hatchback) to Rs 3,200 (SUV) for 8 hours and 100 km, from the tourist-taxi fares in the Goa Official Gazette of 5 August 2021; the September 2026 card's full-day rates weren't in anything we read.
- Food: Rs 620 to 1,040 a person a day, three meals at what our own bills for two came to in February 2026, rounded to the nearest Rs 10. The low end is our Carnival day in the North: Rs 204 for puri bhaji and chai at Cafe Sai Sadanand, Rs 490 for our meal before the parade at Navtara in Mapusa and Rs 550 for dinner at Calangute Residency, or Rs 102, 245 and 275 each. The high end is three meals at our dearest, Rs 690 for two at breakfast in a Palolem cafe, or Rs 345 each. We found no dated peak-season menu prices, so peak uses the same.
- Tickets: the upper fort, the Aguad jail complex, the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Christian Art, at the prices given above: the upper fort and the jail in the table at the top, the two museums in the Old Goa section.
- Optional, in the calculator: three water-sports rides Rs 1,100 a person; parasailing about Rs 500 to 1,500; a Mandovi cruise Rs 449 (an evening cruise at a sale price) to Rs 1,500 (a dinner cruise).
What we paid ourselves, first, by our bills and UPI records: Rs 10,200 for three nights at Calangute Residency, Rs 1,500 for the taxi from Mopa airport on 16 February 2026, Rs 1,000 for the scooter on 17 and 18 February, at Rs 500 a day before petrol, Rs 4,600 for parasailing and a jet ski at Candolim for the two of us, Rs 1,000 for the two of us on the Mandovi cruise, Rs 10,000 for two Thai massages at Snip Salon & Spa, and Rs 50 at Fort Aguada's upper fort. Those come to Rs 28,350, without the petrol or our meals. The taxi came from a local cab service; with our bags, going straight to the hotel by taxi was the easy way.
Two prices to set beside ours. Kadamba's air-conditioned shuttle from Mopa to Calangute was Rs 200 a passenger on the state's citizens' charter updated in January 2026, and petrol in North Goa cost Rs 104.06 a litre on 9 October 2026 on Upstox's price tracker. Rental scooters are meant to carry yellow number plates: the Transport Department's director said in October 2022 that owners of rental bikes and cars may hire out yellow-plated vehicles, and in February 2025 the department ordered Rs 10,000 fines for renting out private vehicles, The Goan reported.
Work out your own North Goa trip
Change who's going, the nights, the season, the stay and the tickets, and tick the things to do you want; the total moves with you. Without JavaScript the table above carries the same figures.
Plan for aboutRs 34,000 to 42,000about $360 to 440, £270 to 330, €320 to 390
For 2 people, 4 nights, a weekday from late October to mid-December 2026. Not included: flights or trains to Goa, alcohol, shopping, tips and anything bought on the beach.
| Item | What it covers | Rs |
|---|---|---|
| Stay | 4 nights, the sea-view room at Calangute Residency, where we stayed, breakfast included | 24,988 to 25,460 |
| Airport and back | a taxi from Mopa and back, from the notified card worked out for 29 km to the Rs 1,500 we paid | 1,968 to 3,000 |
| Getting around | 3 days, a rented scooter and its petrol | 750 to 1,755 |
| Food | 2 people, 5 days, three vegetarian meals a day at what we paid | 6,200 to 10,400 |
| Fort Aguada, upper fort | 2 tickets | 40 to 50 |
| Aguad Port and Jail Complex | 2 tickets | 600 |
| Archaeological Museum, Old Goa | 2 tickets | 20 |
| Museum of Christian Art, Old Goa | 2 tickets | 200 |
Dollar, pound and euro figures use the RBI reference rate of 13 October 2026. Every line's source and date are in the list above the calculator.
Taxis in Goa charge by the kilometre, and Goa Tourism advises fixing a price for the whole journey before you get in.
What to pack for North Goa, and the start of the season
We were in North Goa from 16 to 19 February 2026, and the midday sun was strong, at the fort and the market most of all. How February felt, beside every other month, is on our page on when to visit Goa, month by month.
If you're going in October or November, the season is only just starting. In 2026 the India Meteorological Department said on 8 October that the monsoon had withdrawn from some parts of Goa, The Goan reported; IMD's withdrawal line, which had run through Panjim, had moved south of Goa, to Honavar, by its 12 October release, and IMD declared it gone from the whole country on 15 October 2026. The Anjuna market's 2026-27 opening hadn't been announced by 14 October, and the state's water-sports rules keep rides off the water in unsafe weather. Drishti's lifeguards made 67 rescues in October 2025 alone. By our checks, budget rooms were cheapest on our late-October date.
What we'd pack for the North, on top of the beach things:
- Comfortable walking shoes, which Vandana says do more than sandals on the fort's climb and in the market; and, I'd add, not new ones worn for the first time on the trip.
- Sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses and a light shrug.
- A small bag with water, a power bank and your phone.
- Clothes that cover shoulders and knees if you'll go inside the churches.
- Some cash as well as UPI. We paid a lot by UPI, and cash was handy for small shopping and the market. Vandana's advice is to keep a little cash for the day in a small bag, and to ask before paying whether it's UPI or cash.
North Goa places to visit: FAQ
What are the best places to visit in North Goa?
The best places to visit in North Goa are Fort Aguada with Sinquerim and Candolim; the Anjuna flea market, Vagator and Chapora Fort, best together on a Wednesday; and Old Goa's churches with Fontainhas, the old quarter of Panaji (Panjim). Calangute makes a convenient base for the coast. Beyond those come Mapusa's Friday market, Reis Magos Fort, the Pernem beaches such as Morjim and Arambol, and Mayem Lake.
What are the things to do in North Goa?
The things to do in North Goa, beyond the forts, markets and churches, are the water sports at Candolim, Calangute and Baga, an evening cruise on the Mandovi from Panaji, the sunsets from Chapora Fort and the beaches, and the Wednesday market at Anjuna. We tried parasailing and a jet ski at Candolim and took the Mandovi cruise in February 2026. Licensed operators charge the uniform rates the Department of Tourism set from 10 October 2025, such as Rs 1,100 a person for any three of jet ski, banana and bumper ride, and water sports run from 8 am to 6.30 pm or sunset, whichever is earlier.
How much does a North Goa trip cost?
For four nights in North Goa, a solo traveller on a budget should plan for about Rs 6,500 to 12,000 (about $70 to 125), two people at a mid-range hotel like the one we used about Rs 34,000 to 42,000 (about $360 to 440), and a family of four in a budget family room with a taxi for sightseeing about Rs 29,000 to 46,000 (about $300 to 480), in late October to mid-December 2026. Priced at 31 December rates every night, the same trips come to about Rs 11,000 to 18,000, Rs 84,000 to 92,000 and Rs 43,000 to 79,000. Flights or trains to Goa are not included. Dollar figures use the RBI reference rate of 13 October 2026.
How much are water sports at Candolim?
At Candolim and the other North Goa beaches, the Department of Tourism's uniform rates from 10 October 2025 are Rs 1,100 a person for any three of jet ski, banana and bumper ride, Rs 1,000 a ride for a banana boat of five, and Rs 6,000 a trip for a winch parasailing boat carrying up to 12, so about Rs 500 a head when it's full. No single-ride jet-ski or parasailing price was printed in what we read. Buy only at a licensed counter or through the department's links; we found no 2026-27 revision by 14 October 2026.
Do foreigners pay more at Fort Aguada?
Yes. At Fort Aguada's upper fort, the Archaeological Survey of India's online counter charges foreigners Rs 250 against Rs 20 for Indian visitors and visitors from SAARC and BIMSTEC countries, as read on 14 October 2026; visitors have reported paying Rs 300 and Rs 25 at the fort, amounts that match ASI's cash rates. The Aguad jail complex below it charges Rs 600 for international visitors against Rs 300 for general entry, tax extra. We found no rule putting OCI cardholders on the Indian rate, so ask at the counter.
Is Old Goa in North Goa or South Goa?
Old Goa is in North Goa: Tiswadi taluka, North Goa district, about 10 km east of Panaji. The Archaeological Survey of India's list of protected monuments puts the Basilica of Bom Jesus and Se Cathedral in North Goa, and the state's Official Gazette of 2 January 2025 lists Old Goa, Tiswadi, under North Goa. The South Goa district website still lists the galleries at Se Cathedral and the Basilica among South Goa's museums, on a page last updated in 2018.
How many days do you need for North Goa?
In North Goa, two full days cover the coast: Fort Aguada, Sinquerim and Candolim on one, and the Anjuna market, Vagator and Chapora on the other, ideally a Wednesday. Old Goa and Panaji need time of their own rather than a stop on the way somewhere else. With a week in Goa, Nav would spend three nights in the North and three in the South.
Is Fort Aguada free to enter?
Fort Aguada's upper fort isn't free: when we went in February 2026 it had an entry gate, and we paid Rs 25 each, by our UPI record. When we checked on 14 October 2026, the Archaeological Survey of India's online ticket counter priced it at Rs 20 for Indian visitors and Rs 250 for foreigners; visitors have reported paying Rs 25 and, for foreigners, Rs 300, amounts that match ASI's cash rates. The old jail below it, now the Aguad Port and Jail Complex, is ticketed separately, and GTDC says the newer lighthouse charges a small fee to climb.
How much is the Aguada jail museum ticket, and when is it open?
The old Aguada jail is now the Aguad Port and Jail Complex, run by Waterfront Experiences. When we checked in October 2026, its booking page listed General Entry at Rs 300, International Visitor Entry at Rs 600 and a heritage walk with entry at Rs 800, with the interactive museum included, and it's open daily from 10 am to 8 pm. The Rs 100, Rs 200 and Rs 400 still quoted are the fees reported in October 2023, for Goans, other Indian visitors and foreigners.
What are Fort Aguada's timings?
Fort Aguada's upper fort is open from 9 am to 6 pm every day, going by the Archaeological Survey of India's online ticket counter, which sells entry slots for those hours, though other pages differ; the Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC) lists the fort as open daily from 9.30 am to 6.00 pm, and the Ministry of Tourism says 9.00 am to 5.00 pm. The Aguad jail complex is open daily from 10 am to 8 pm, and the lighthouse department lists 10.00 am to 5.30 pm and 7.30 to 8.30 pm for the newer lighthouse.
Can you climb the lighthouse at Fort Aguada?
Fort Aguada's newer lighthouse, commissioned in 1976 on the hill west of the fort, is the one GTDC says you can climb, for a small fee. It's run by the Directorate General of Lighthouses and Lightships, which lists visiting hours of 10.00 am to 5.30 pm and 7.30 to 8.30 pm. The old 1864 lighthouse inside the fort fell out of use in 1976, GTDC says, and is most often closed to the public.
Is Chapora Fort open during the restoration?
Whether Chapora Fort is open during the restoration, we couldn't confirm either way. A Rs 4.61 crore restoration was reported under way on 19 September 2026, expected to finish by December 2026, and the report said nothing about closing the fort. A visitor in April 2026 found work going on and entry cut off at 5.30 pm. In February 2026 we were inside for the sunset and nobody asked us to leave. Go well before 5.30 pm and expect work in progress.
Does Chapora Fort have an entry fee?
Chapora Fort has a notified entry fee, but we found no report of anyone paying it. The state's rules set the fee at Rs 50 in November 2024, and the Official Gazette of 2 January 2025 lists Chapora among the monuments where it applies. A visitor in early 2024 and a travel blog in July 2026 describe entry as free, and in July 2025 the minister said the government would seek approval to impose an entry fee at the fort.
Which day is the Anjuna flea market?
The Anjuna flea market runs on Wednesdays in the season. The Mopa airport's visitor blog gives 9 am to 6 pm and a season from the end of October to the start of April; some listings say it runs into May. It closes for the monsoon, and when we checked in October 2026 we found no announcement of the 2026-27 opening in the English or Marathi press.
Which day is the Mapusa market?
Friday is the big market day in Mapusa, going by reports from 2018 and 2020. We found no timetable from the municipal council, so if you want the full market, go on a Friday.
What are the timings of the Basilica of Bom Jesus?
The Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa is free to enter and, on the Government of Goa's portal, open 9.00 am to 6.30 pm on weekdays and 10.30 am to 6.30 pm on Sundays. It closes to visitors for some services, such as Holy Week, so check the notice if you're going then or around the Feast of St Francis Xavier on 3 December. Se Cathedral, across the square, is open 7.30 am to 6.00 pm by GTDC's and the Ministry of Tourism's pages.
Is Dudhsagar in North Goa?
Dudhsagar falls aren't in North Goa. They're in Kushavati, the third district Goa created on 31 December 2025: Kushavati's own website puts them in Dharbandora taluka, and the state portal in Sanguem. Palolem and Cabo de Rama are in Kushavati too, and the Ponda temples and spice farms are in South Goa district. North Goa is Pernem, Bardez, Bicholim, Sattari and Tiswadi.
How much is a taxi from Mopa airport to Calangute?
We paid Rs 1,500 for a taxi from Mopa airport to Calangute on 16 February 2026, by our UPI record, arranged through a local cab service, and the taxi board at Mopa that day showed Rs 1,094 for a hatchback and Rs 1,211 for a sedan to Calangute. The fare card the state notified in September 2026, as reported, works out at about Rs 984 in a yellow-black hatchback for the 29 km, or about Rs 1,476 if its 50 per cent extra for one-way trips outside municipal limits applies; tolls and parking are extra, and 11 pm to 5 am adds 35 per cent. Kadamba's air-conditioned shuttle is Rs 200 a passenger, on the state's citizens' charter of January 2026. Uber and Ola haven't been allowed into Goa, going by the Chief Minister in June 2025.
What is there to do in North Goa at night?
When we were there in February 2026, Vandana remembers Calangute as busy at night, with shops, restaurants and music. Our four evenings in February 2026 were Calangute beach at sunset, the Mapusa Carnival parade, the sunset from Chapora Fort and a cruise on the Mandovi at Panaji. Goa's pollution control board said in January 2026 that playing music after 10 pm is illegal except on 15 notified days a year, and it has ordered closures at Anjuna and Vagator since 2025, so check what's open that week.
Where should you stay to see North Goa?
Calangute is a convenient base for the coast, under 9 km by road from both Fort Aguada and the Anjuna market, and it's where we stayed. For a calmer stay, Vandana would look at Candolim too, and Anjuna and Vagator are worth a look for cafes, the market and evenings out. If you want quiet, choose the exact location with care and ask about your room's position and the music around it before you book; Anjuna and Vagator have had noise orders against establishments as recently as 2025 and 2026.
What we couldn't verify
- Whether any part of Chapora Fort is closed during the restoration, its official timings, and whether you can still stay for the sunset, as we could in February 2026. GTDC and the state portal give no timings, and the archaeology department's website was closed to the public when we tried.
- When the Anjuna flea market opens for 2026-27, and whether it runs to April or May. We found no announcement in the English or Marathi press when we checked in October 2026.
- The fee to climb the Aguada lighthouse, and whether the climb is open at all, which only GTDC's page says. The lighthouse department lists hours and sells tickets online; we found no price for Aguada.
- Which days Mapusa's market trades besides Friday.
- Whether the entry fee notified for Chapora is collected.
- Whether Mayem Lake's kayaking runs in the 2026-27 season, after the High Court's August 2026 suspension of water sports on inland waterways.
- The text of the September 2026 taxi card, and whether its 50 per cent one-way extra applies to airport runs. The Transport Directorate's fare page listed nothing after 2021 when we read it on 14 October 2026, and the QR rate cards weren't yet reported in use.
- A single-ride price for a jet ski or a parasailing flight, and any age or weight limits. The report of the October 2025 rates printed only the combos and the boat trips, and the policy sets no limits.
- GTDC's own Mandovi cruise fares and times. Its cruise page wouldn't load on 14 October 2026; the prices above are online sellers'.
- Toilets at Fort Aguada and Chapora Fort, and a count of the steps. We didn't note them, and no official or mapped source gave them.
- The fare for OCI cardholders at Fort Aguada. ASI's counter lists only Indian, SAARC, BIMSTEC and foreign visitors.
- Which North Goa restaurants cook Jain food, without onion, garlic or root vegetables. We found only listings we couldn't confirm.
If you've been to any of these lately, tell us what you found at [email protected]; if you're happy to be named, we'll credit you.
Planning a North Goa trip?
Questions and corrections are welcome at [email protected]. Send your dates and how many days you have; we read every note.
Sources
Districts and talukas: the Government of Goa's Kushavati collectorate page (read 8 Oct 2026) and The Goan, 1 Jan 2026. Old Goa and Fort Aguada in North Goa: the Archaeological Survey of India's list of protected monuments and the Official Gazette, Series I No. 40, 2 Jan 2025, which also notifies Chapora's fee, amended to Rs 50 in Series I No. 35, 28 Nov 2024; the South Goa district's places of interest page. The upper fort's tickets: ASI's online ticket counter, read 8 Oct 2026, the cash and cashless rates, the Ministry of Culture's Rajya Sabha answer of 9 Feb 2021; and visitors' reviews on Tripadvisor (November 2024, January 2026); guides saying it's free, Thrillophilia and the Mopa airport's blog. Fort hours: ASI's counter (above), GTDC's Fort Aguada page and the Ministry of Tourism, which also gives the jail's museum name. The lighthouse: the Directorate General of Lighthouses and Lightships, updated 3 Jul 2025. The jail complex: its own site, its booking page and its boat page, all read 8 Oct 2026; the jail emptied in 2015, O Heraldo, 7 Aug 2016; the museum's opening, Times of India, 17 Jan 2022, ThePrint, 12 Aug 2022 and O Heraldo, 25 Oct 2023; the 2023 fees, Prudent Media, 26 Oct 2023. Sinquerim: GTDC. Erosion: O Heraldo, 13 Apr 2025. Anjuna market: GTDC, Mopa airport's guide, mygoa365, 3 Jul 2026, and visitors on Tripadvisor. Noise at Anjuna and Vagator: O Heraldo, 14 Apr 2026. Vagator: the Government of Goa portal, Wikipedia and a visitor's Tripadvisor review (March 2025). Chapora: Prudent Media, 19 Sep 2026; The Goan, 22 Jul 2025; Prudent Media, 21 Jul 2025; GTDC's Chapora page; the state's list of protected monuments; the 2024 and April 2026 visitors on Tripadvisor; the travel blog, goadiaries, 28 Jul 2026. Sunset times: our own calculation for Panaji's coordinates, with the NOAA solar equations. Calangute and Baga: GTDC; the works, The Goan, 28 May 2026; the jam, Times of India, 5 Oct 2026; the demolitions, The Goan, 6 May 2026; the fines, Prudent Media, 1 Aug 2026, and the 2022 order, The Goan, 27 Nov 2022. Old Goa: UNESCO; Thrillophilia's South Goa list; the Basilica's hours, the Government of Goa portal (read 8 Oct 2026) and ASI; its closures, the Archdiocese's 2026 notice, O Heraldo, 16 Apr 2025 and O Heraldo, 7 Nov 2025; the 2016 dress code, UCA News, December 2016; photography and dress, visitors' Tripadvisor reviews of the Basilica (2022 to 2026), Se Cathedral (2023) and the Immaculate Conception church (2023 to 2025); Se Cathedral, GTDC and the Ministry of Tourism; the museums, the Ministry of Tourism, ASI's ticket counter and the Museum of Christian Art. Panaji: the Latin Quarter name, Wikipedia; the District Magistrate's 2022 order; the house notices, O Heraldo, 6 Mar 2025; the wardens, O Heraldo, 31 Jul 2025 and Times of India, 9 Mar 2026; the church, GTDC. Mapusa: The Goan, 28 Oct 2020 and O Heraldo, 2 Mar 2018. The rest of North Goa: Reis Magos, the Ministry of Tourism and the Government of Goa portal (read 8 Oct 2026); Morjim, O Heraldo, 11 Feb 2026; ferries, the River Navigation Department's published timetable, read 8 Oct 2026; Alorna, The Goan, 28 Jun 2026, The Navhind Times, 29 Jun 2026 and Wikipedia; the Salim Ali sanctuary, the Ministry of Tourism and a visitor's Tripadvisor review of Chorao, 29 Sep 2026; Mayem, the Ministry of Tourism, The Goan, 16 Jun 2026 and, on the High Court's suspension, The Goan, 4 Aug 2026; Harvalem, The Goan, 13 Jun 2026. Places that aren't North Goa: the lists, Thrillophilia's and the Richmonde Ananta Elite blog, read 8 Oct 2026; Mangueshi Temple and Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary and Mollem National Park on Wikipedia, read 8 Oct 2026. Getting around: Uber and Ola, the Chief Minister to Scroll, 14 Jun 2025; GoaMiles; the Kadamba route list; the flyover, digitalgoa, 13 Sep 2026 and Times of India, 4 Oct 2026; the cameras, Times of India, 2 Aug 2026. Distances: GTDC, the lighthouse department, the Ministry of Tourism and UNESCO where named, otherwise OpenStreetMap driving routes (the OSRM planner), run 8 Oct 2026. Our own days: our recollection of the February 2026 trip, with our photographs. Costs: our own UPI records; the Mopa shuttle, KTCL's citizens' charter, updated January 2026; petrol, Upstox, 9 Oct 2026; the plates, The Goan, 20 Oct 2022 and The Goan, 2 Mar 2025; taxi fares, Goa Tourism. Evenings: the music rule, O Heraldo, 21 Jan 2026; the board's orders at Anjuna and Vagator, O Heraldo, 14 Apr 2026. Stays: Hostelworld's lists for Vagator, Calangute and Baga, and The Beachside Hostel Anjuna; Taj Fort Aguada Resort, all read 10 Oct 2026; registration, The Federal, 5 Dec 2024. Read again or added on 14 Oct 2026: ASI's counter for the upper fort and the Archaeological Museum, and the jail complex's booking page (tax not included). Water sports: the uniform rates, The Goan, 12 Oct 2025; buying at official counters, The Goan, 23 Oct 2025; the 2023 Rs 3,000 parasail, Sakshi Post (IANS), 27 Mar 2023; the hours, weather and turtle rules, the state's Policy for Regulation of Water Sports in Goa (Official Gazette, 19 Nov 2020), which also quotes the High Court on the flags; insurance, O Heraldo, 28 Sep 2026; the parasailing and Nirvana cruise prices, Thrillophilia, read 14 Oct 2026. The cruise: Paradise Cruises' dinner cruise page, read 14 Oct 2026. Lifeguards and rescues, O Heraldo, 14 Feb 2026. The Miramar boardwalk, the Government of Goa's press note of 7 Oct 2025, and its toilet block, O Heraldo, 29 Sep 2026. The food regulator's closures, O Heraldo, 8 Oct 2026. The tourism helpline and its languages, Goa Tourism's helpline page, read 15 Oct 2026; scooter rates, Goa Tourism, read 14 Oct 2026; the peak rise, Gomantak Times (undated); scooter fuel use, Autocar India. The taxi card, digitalgoa, 25 Sep 2026, O Heraldo, 26 Sep 2026 and, on the QR cards, The Goan, 1 Oct 2026; the Transport Directorate's fare chart page, read 14 Oct 2026; the full-day tourist-taxi fares, a copy of the Official Gazette of 5 Aug 2021 on GTDC's site; the board at Mopa, our own photograph, 16 Feb 2026. Hotel prices: our own checks on Booking.com and MakeMyTrip on 14 Oct 2026, for stays on 28 Oct, 15 Dec and 31 Dec 2026. Arrivals, the Department of Tourism's figures via Northeast News, 10 Oct 2026. The monsoon's withdrawal: The Goan, 8 Oct 2026, IMD press release, 12 Oct 2026 and ThePrint (PTI), 15 Oct 2026. From abroad: the e-visa fee table (8 Sep 2026); the e-Arrival card, Business Today, 3 Apr 2026; Air Suvidha, the Indian missions' notice of 26 Jun 2026; charters, The Goan, 29 Jul 2026; UPI One World, NPCI, 16 Feb 2026; Russian cards, Travelto, 16 Jul 2026; the C-Form, the Goa government's notice of 10 Dec 2025. Exchange rates: the RBI reference rate (FBIL) of 13 Oct 2026. The "what holds up" table: the Tourism Minister on taxi operators, Business Today, 25 Nov 2024; a reported overcharge, The Goan, 29 May 2026; Fort Aguada "No fee", Travelxp, read 14 Oct 2026; foreign arrivals below the pre-Covid level, the Chief Minister to ANI via Asianet Newsable, 10 Oct 2026; Google's AI Mode answer on Aguada's fee, seen 14 Oct 2026. The map: district outlines and places from OpenStreetMap, read 10 Oct 2026.
Changelog
- First published.


